An Occasional Tipple: Magnificent Italian wine for lucky birthday boy

​The greatest benefit of booze in general and wine in particular is the duality of its nature. Forces you to think that, doesn't it? I digress.

Raymond Gleug celebrates his birthday with Italian wine

While alcohol is a depressant and one's intake of the devil's buttermilk should be carefully monitored, it can also on the one hand promote great cheerfulness whilst likewise with the same hand soothe us in our times of sorrow. But careful- it can also kick you in the crotch, dear!

I mention all this because I'm entering a period of great mourning as I commemorate the ending of one more year of my too, too short life on this God-forsaken planet. By contrast, you will all (I hope) be celebrating the joys of life at barbecues and garden parties in glorious sunshine. Happily, I still have a magnificent mane of tawny auburn hair despite being almost 62. Can you believe it? There must be a picture in the attic. Happier still, I have several magnificent Italian wines to while away the birthday weekend.

First among near equals, but just about gaining the nod to be sure to be sure- unlike my selection, Divine Comedy, so narrowly defeated in the 5.05 at Ascot on Tuesday (ouch!)- as my WINE OF THE WEEK is the robust, rustic and opulent 2022 Chianti Reserva (£6.49, Lidl)- a wonderfully expressive bouquet comes packed with damsons, cherries and spices which mingle most pleasingly on its complex palate before hints of black pepper and dark bitter chocolate enrich its lengthy finish. Enjoy this memorable red with grilled lamb chops on fried bread on any old warm Summer evening.

Lovers of white may prefer the fresh, fragrant and gloriously refreshing 2023 Fattori Pinot Grigio (£11.99, Naked Wines). This unoaked Italian white is brimful of juicy peach and sharper lime flavours alongside grassy and herbaceous aromatics. One for a warm chicken and coriander salad with rocket, sundried tomatoes and black olives.

Lovers of pink, you have not been forgotten- today’s final selection is the lipsmackingly crisp, reassuringly elegant and satisfyingly savoury 2022 Chiaretto di Bardolino (Naked Wines, £15.99). A gloriously refreshing splash of pink greets you with captivating floral aromas before a richly textured palate which teems with tangy red berry and slightly sharper citrus flavours. This is, to quote my very eloquent wife, the redoubtable Madame G., a vibrantly aromatic, veritable mouthful of summer in a glass which we enjoyed very much with our potato, garlic, bacon and onion bake alongside a spicy Mexican-style slaw.

Bringing us back full circle, if only because I say so, to our initial Chianti which will also be an ideal match to the medium rare steak, chips, sauteed onions and mushrooms in a sumptuous bone marrow jus that my Madame is planning to rustle up for my birthday. Did I mention that it was my birthday weekend?

Of course, it's not all about me. I’d mostly like to thank Italy for the wine and wish them all the success in the Euros. Vive la France aussi! And Spain, Germany, Austria, the Czechs. Scotland too. Anyone but you know who... Till next week, tipplers, sante!