What is all the fuss about English whisky? English whisky history and why there are concerns over GI
Scotland is known for our national drink, but a right stooshie is kicking off over English whisky and its geographical indication (GI), but what’s the fuss all about ? Food and drink editor Rosalind Erskine takes a look
Last month the UK Government granted English whisky a geographical indication (GI), a status that “officially recognises English Whisky as a distinctive whisky category, reflecting years of work by producers across England who have combined craftsmanship, innovation and ambition to create a spirit with a character worthy of protection.”
This move comes after a failed bid last year. Led by the English Whisky Guild the GI protects English whisky and whiskey - it can, confusingly, be spelled either way - under the UK Spirit Drinks Geographical Indications Scheme, placing it alongside Scotch and Welsh whisky and Irish whiskey.
Now the Scotch Whisky Association, along with the Irish Whiskey and Welsh Whisky Associations have issued a statement raising concerns about this GI. They said: “We hoped that a mutually beneficial resolution could be found to both protect the integrity of the single malt category and allow the English GI to proceed. Despite efforts to find an agreement, including offering compromises to the English Whisky Guild, our Associations remain concerned about inconsistencies in approving the English whisky GI, both in terms of process and future practice.
“The whisk(e)y producers we represent have a proud, long-standing and unrivalled tradition of making world-class whisk(e)y. We want to see high-quality definitions, which underpin a high-quality single malt category enjoyed by millions around the world.”
With all this in mind, what is the fuss over English whisky?
The main issue centres around the definition of single malt. In Scotch (and Welsh and Irish) whisky this means that the liquid is mashed, fermented and distilled in the one location. For English whisky, only the final distillation needs to be done at the one site. Those in the Scotch industry who are concerned say that “by removing the requirement for the whole process to be carried out on a single distillery, they risk confusing the definition for Scotch, Welsh and Irish whisky, and loosening the public’s respect for single malt as a product.”
That’s not the only rule that’s different to Scotch whisky, as a definition. Scotch can only be called Scotch if the liquid - made from water, malted barley and yeast - has been mashed, fermented and distilled in Scotland, and matured in oak barrels in Scotland for three years and one day.
English whisky makers can use any kind of wood in maturation, as well as any kind of grains, not just malted barley. This can open up a whole world of possibilities in flavour, and it makes for whisky that is very different in many ways from Scotch. It’s an exciting category, and fun to try. Much like all whiskies, there are some good ones and others that are not up to scratch.
As for English whisky history, it all but died out around 1905 when the Lea Valley distillery in Stratford was closed. It had been owned by the Distillers Company Limited, one of the forerunners of Diageo. Now there are more than 70 distilleries producing whisky in England, around 30 more than in 2023. Whether this debate has legs, or will dampen down with time remains to be seen. All we can do is sit back with a dram and watch the outcome.
Comments
Want to join the conversation? Please or to comment on this article.