I tried Friday night dinner at this cool and moody Edinburgh basement restaurant
There have been changes at this destination
I was ruminating over cutlery on my way to Skua.
That’s because this place is no longer owned by Tomas Gormley, formerly of Michelin-starred Heron, and now executive chef at Edinburgh pub Gilded Saloon and owner of Eyre Place restaurant Cardinal. A few months ago, the reins were handed over to their head chef James Aikman and Katie Messer, who both also own Scotland’s first specialist professional knife shop, Messer.
I wish I’d been to that blade boutique, which is on the same street as Skua, but I haven’t. To be honest, I’m more of a spoon girl. I like my cutlery how I like my men - blunt, big-headed and very useful when it comes to making cups of tea. Talking of which, I took my big spoon with me to visit this tiny basement venue, which retained its Michelin Bib Gourmand this year.
Neither of us noticed a huge difference from last time we visited, except the seats seemed a lot more comfortable and there was more breathing room between tables. The interior has been softened and bistro-ified, but it has a similar vibe. It’s generally still dark, cool and moody, like a beatnik bar. Also, the toilets are still outside, though there’s nothing they can do about that quirk.
We got the best table - at the back, against a wood-panelled wall, with candles burning and banquettes topped with white and checkered cushions.
It was buzzing on a Friday night, and the effervescent cusp-of-the-weekend fever was infectious.
That’s especially after having a pair of beautiful forage-y cocktails: the gloriously light and smoky Maria Maria (£13) with marigold-infused mezcal, apple liqueur and citrus, as well as a the tiki-drink-style Ruffled Parrot (£13) with clarified Woodruff Rum, pineapple, bourbon and the gentle warmth of habanero.
The name of that drink reminded me that this place was once Blue Parrot Cantina. How Stockbridge has changed over the years. For the better, as far as foodies are concerned.
Dishes come as they’re ready, so the zingy house pickles (£6) - right angles of transparent turnip and gherkin strips - were first to land. Then, three little warm loaves of malt-loafy-sticky salty-sweet brioche with a large helping of cultured butter. Super indulgent.
Next was the pair of St Andrews Cheddar panisse (£10) planks, which were topped with a piped-on cheddar custard, pickled wild garlic and chives. This was fromage, except in HD.
The vegetarian beetroot dish (£17) is an interesting one. In 19 years of restaurant reviewing, I haven’t really tasted anything like this mixture of salt-baked root veg, plus plum, chicory, hazelnut, pine syrup and spruce tips. There was a lot going on. I’d say it was like eating jam, while hiking through a forest.
We loved both of our bigger dishes. They were equally intriguing and unique - mini adventures in foodie form.
The plump fillets of turbot (£32) came with accessories including a frothy kombu butter, dulse, preserved lemon, a bright orange ramiro sauce and Jersey Royal tatties.
Our buttery textured sika deer (£32) loin was topped with a rich, caramelised and Marmite-y game reduction, and there was a spiced bread sauce, pumpkin pesto, asparagus spears and sea aster leaves on the plate.
The flavours here are big, bold, and good with booze, though I’d stopped drinking after my cocktail, since it had gone straight to my head. He had moved onto one of their wines by the glass - a lively and peachy No Lemon, No Melon white Merlot (£13) that was perfect alongside our fishy dish.
There are two sweet things for pudding. Both creamy numbers. These include the brown butter, woodruff, almond (£8), which was an olive-oil-drizzled ice-creamy trio, in slightly varying buff shades, with golden biscuity crumbs on the bottom of the bowl. The top deck of almond ice-cream was the sort of thing I could happily eat by the pint, as I am a sucker for a nutty dessert. Their other sugary coda consisted of a neat portion of ginger crema (£8), poached rhubarb and a ginger granita - eat fast, before it melts - for a relatively classic combo.
Anyway, I loved Skua when I visited a few years ago, and this new iteration is a bit different, but just as impressive, with a big personality.
The food is a bit like a good knife - sharp, shiny and cutting edge.
This humble spoon fan is impressed.
Skua, 49 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh (www.skua.scot)
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