Making the sobering trip from Edinburgh to Auschwitz
As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Auschwitz stands as a powerful reminder of the consequences of hatred and intolerance.
This journey will connect you with one of history's most sobering chapters - a place where over 1.1 million people, predominantly Jews, lost their lives during the Holocaust.
Understanding the destination’s significance
Auschwitz-Birkenau was the largest concentration and extermination camp complex operated by Nazi Germany during World War II. Located in Oświęcim, Poland, approximately 70 kilometers west of Krakow, the site consists of three main camps: Auschwitz I (the original camp), Auschwitz II-Birkenau (the extermination camp), and Auschwitz III-Monowitz (a labor camp).
Between 1940 and 1945, the Nazis murdered approximately 1.1 million people here. The vast majority were Jewish, but the victims also included Poles, Roma, Soviet prisoners of war, and others deemed "undesirable" by the Nazi regime.
What to expect
Auschwitz I covers approximately 20 hectares and houses museum exhibitions in the former barracks. You'll walk through the infamous gate bearing the inscription "Arbeit Macht Frei" (Work Sets You Free) and visit blocks containing personal belongings of victims, including shoes, suitcases, and hair.
Auschwitz II-Birkenau is much larger, spanning 175 hectares. This is where the majority of murders took place. You'll see the railroad tracks that brought victims directly to the gas chambers, the remains of destroyed crematoria, and rows of barracks that once held thousands of prisoners.
A complete visit to both sites typically takes 3.5 to 4 hours. The experience is emotionally demanding, so prepare yourself mentally. The memorial maintains strict guidelines: visitors must behave respectfully, dress appropriately, and remain silent in certain areas.
Special commemorative dates include January 27 (International Holocaust Remembrance Day, marking the liberation of Auschwitz) and September 2 (the day when the first transport of Polish political prisoners arrived in 1940). These dates attract significant crowds and require even earlier booking.
Preparing for your visit
As of 2025, advance reservations are mandatory for all visitors. The memorial receives over 2 million visitors annually, so booking ahead is essential - ideally 2-3 months in advance, especially during peak season (May through September).
The primary travel route runs from Edinburgh to Krakow John Paul II International Airport (KRK), located just 11 kilometers from the city center. Multiple airlines operate this route, including budget carriers and traditional airlines, with flights taking approximately 2.5 to 3 hours.
Direct flights typically range from £60 to £200 depending on the season and how far in advance you book.
Staying in Krakow makes the most sense for most travelers. The city offers accommodation ranging from budget hostels (£15-25 per night) to mid-range hotels (£50-80) and luxury options (£100+). The Old Town (Stare Miasto) and Kazimierz (the historic Jewish Quarter) provide the best atmosphere and easy access to tour departure points.
Book accommodation near the main square or Kazimierz to minimize morning travel time before your Auschwitz tour. Popular areas include Stradomska Street, Szeroka Street, and streets around Wawel Castle.
Reaching Auschwitz
Organized tour buses represent the most convenient choice. These tours depart from central Krakow locations, include round-trip transportation, and come with English-speaking guides. The journey takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes each way. Companies like KrakowDirect offer comprehensive packages that handle all logistics, including skip-the-line entry and expert guides who provide historical context throughout your visit.
Public transportation offers a budget-friendly alternative. Regular buses operated by PKS and private companies depart from Krakow's main bus station (Dworzec Autobusowy MDA) every hour, costing approximately 14-18 PLN (£3-4) one way. The journey takes 1.5 to 2 hours. Trains also run from Krakow Główny station, taking about 2 hours.
Private car hire or taxi services cost between 300-400 PLN (£60-80) for a round trip. This option works well for small groups wanting flexibility in timing.
Making your journey meaningful
Krakow itself holds significant Holocaust history. Visit Schindler's Factory, now a museum documenting Krakow's occupation during WWII. Walk through Kazimierz, the historic Jewish Quarter, where synagogues and Jewish cultural centers preserve pre-war heritage.
Consider a 4-5 day itinerary including Warsaw, where you can visit the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews and walk the path of the former Warsaw Ghetto. The Ghetto Heroes Monument and Umschlagplatz memorial mark locations where thousands of Jews were gathered for deportation to Treblinka.
Share your experience thoughtfully with others, emphasizing the historical lessons rather than focusing on shock value. Your visit connects past atrocities with present responsibilities to prevent similar horrors.
Maintain appropriate behavior: speak quietly, don't eat or drink within the memorial areas, and never climb on structures or ruins. Dress modestly out of respect.
Don't pose for cheerful photographs or selfies. If you take photos, do so thoughtfully and respectfully. Remember, this is a place of mourning and remembrance, not a tourist attraction.
Prepare thoughtfully
Your journey from Edinburgh to Auschwitz represents more than a typical trip - it's a pilgrimage to one of history's most important sites of remembrance. With proper planning, including advance booking, appropriate transportation arrangements, and emotional preparation, you'll create a meaningful experience that honors the victims and survivors.