I moved to Leith two months ago, and this is what I've learnt about Edinburgh's 'coolest' area
This is my favourite part of Edinburgh
It’s a shame that it’s taken me until middle age to discover how much I adore Leith.
Although I’ve lived in Edinburgh for almost my entire life, I’d always stayed in other parts of the city. Still, better late than never to discover my spiritual home.
In tribute, here are a few things that I have discovered in my two months of living here.
1 Restaurants. Just when you think the area has peaked, as far as eating out is concerned, with a million brilliant places, from Barry Fish to Pala, another handful of destinations open up. Soon, the old pub, The Cooper’s Rest, on Easter Road, which has been closed for a decade, will be upgraded and transformed by the people behind Newbarns distillery and Edinburgh restaurant, The Palmerston. Also, the restaurant Dogstar will be opening in autumn on Portland Place. It’s from the Nauticus pub wunderkinds and former Timberyard chef, James Murray. I am counting down the days.
2 Electric scooters. There are many. The other day, I saw a woman who we will describe as Super Gran riding one on the pavement, with her bewildered-looking chihuahua desperately scuttling beside in an attempt to keep up with its owner. I also spotted a boy, around 10 years old, scootering up and down The Walk while barefoot, wearing his red tartan pyjamas. Some people in Leith are a bit extra.
3 This week, I discovered Georgian Antiques. The visit rattled my synapses a bit, so I feel I may have been before, maybe decades ago. I can’t possibly afford anything, and wouldn’t have the space for vast glossy dinner tables to sit 50 people, grandfather clocks, bank manager desks and baroque gilded mirrors, anyway. However, it is such an atmospheric place to visit, with five floors of antiques across this huge former Abbott’s Choice whisky bond warehouse. One day, my ship will pull into the Port of Leith and I will buy all the things.
4 The seagulls. They are divisive, but I love them. Their calls are my morning alarm. I would like to tame one, and call it Captain Beaky. It could steal Frazzles for me and nest on my lap while I work.
5 If it’s a sunny day, people will sit along the waterside at The Shore, and drink wine. We could be in Copenhagen’s Nyhavn, though I probably wouldn’t leap into that water. Is that a crisp packet floating past? There’s also a general al-fresco pavement culture that we don’t have anywhere else in the city. I mean, it’s getting chilly now, and people are still sitting out. They’re hardcore.
6 Funeral directors. Why so many in Leith? They’re dying for our custom (or maybe it should be vice versa). The same goes for Tesco branches. At certain times of day, the mothership Big Tesco on Duke Street is as hectic as Waverley Train Station.
7 The smells. There are so many foodie scents, all wafting from the Vietnamese, Greek and Japanese restaurants on Leith Walk, but also spices and other ingredients from all the global food shops. The fragrance of steak pies in the morning from James Anderson Butchers on Great Junction Street is one of my favourite eau de parfums. Also, you can smell the cinnamon buns at The Pastry Section from as far away as the Kirkgate.
8 It’s green. I always thought of Leith as a very urban, built-up area, but I had forgotten about the 46 acres of Leith Links and its allotment fringes, as well as the graveyards, like the one beside South Leith Parish Church, plus the Water of Leith walkway and various cycle paths. Although Lochend Park doesn’t count as Leith, it’s only a short walk away, and they have a heronry. I’m going to set up a seagullry.
9 The people. There is a community feel, and folk are generally very friendly, except for the one stranger who said “What the f*** are you looking at?” when I passed him last week. Still, it’s colourful. I don’t think there are any boring people in Leith. They’re all main characters.
10 Actual cigarettes. In every other area of the city, smokers have switched to vapes. Not so in Leith. They’re still sticking to the classic coffin nails. It’s like France, in that respect.
11 I’d underestimated the greatness of Leith Market, every Saturday from 10am until 4pm. There’s an excellent selection of stuff, from pies to cheese, seafood, via veggies and homeware.
12 The architecture. Leith has so many amazing buildings, from the 15th-century St Ninian’s Manse, to the 17th century Lamb’s House (currently on sale for, cough, £3.5million) and the Georgian Custom House. These oldies contrast against newer and taller buildings, like the towering Port of Leith distillery or the curved 1960s Banana Flats. Although they don’t look quite as pretty, I’m intrigued by all the modern developments that seem to have sprung up along every vennel off Leith Walk.
13 Crossing Leith Walk. You take your life in your hands, with Deliveroo riders and electric scooters, trams, buses and cars coming from all directions. I’ve started looking up and down, as well as left and right, I am that confused. Anyway, adrenaline makes us feel alive.
14 My new doctor’s surgery is in the Leith Central Railway Station, which is part of the history that gave Irvine Welsh’s novel Trainspotting its name. It’s a thrill, whenever I request a repeat prescription.
15 Central Bar. We’re a bit scared to enter, as there are always regulars guarding the doorway while smoking actual cigarettes. Still, a visit is supposed to be a right of passage in Leith, and the Victorian building is beautiful inside, with original features from 1899.
16 Hibs fans cheer the loudest. I mean, wow.
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