‘We showed that Scottish food could be relaxed’ - 36 year of Howies, Edinburgh
What started as one restaurant has grown into a group of businesses that are as much-loved now as in the 90s. Rosalind Erskine chats to Louis Scott on the next generation of Howies.
“Hospitality isn’t really about restaurants. It’s about people,” said Louis Scott, son of Howies founder David Howie Scott. “My father built Howies on the belief that if you consistently serve good food and genuinely look after people, the business will take care of itself. Thirty-six years later, I still believe that is true.”
Howies has become a byword for a safe pair of hands when it comes to food and drink in Edinburgh. In a city whose dining scene is always in flux - and home to a fair share of Michelin Stars as well as big name, big ego chefs - there’s something comforting about a place that’s been around for more than three decades. But how did it all start?
“Howies began in July 1990 when my father, David Scott, opened a small 28-seat restaurant on St Leonards Street in Edinburgh. It was unlicensed, bring your own bottle (BYOB) and the menu changed daily. There was no marketing budget or customer database, it simply relied on serving great food and looking after people well enough that they told their friends,” explained Mr Scott.
“Dad believed Scotland had some of the finest produce in the world, but at the time it wasn’t always being celebrated in an approachable way. His vision was to create a relaxed neighbourhood restaurant where people could enjoy seasonal Scottish food without any pretence. He wasn’t trying to build a chain. He simply wanted to create somewhere people loved coming back to.
“Thirty-six years later, that philosophy still guides us. We continue to champion Scottish produce, work closely with local suppliers and believe that genuine hospitality is what people remember long after they’ve left the restaurant.”
While Mr Scott senior didn’t pioneer the use of local, seasonal Scottish produce, “because there were many talented chefs helping shape that movement,” said Mr Scott, the business did showcase a more informal approach to dining.
“Howies helped demonstrate that Scottish food could be relaxed, accessible and something people enjoyed regularly rather than only on special occasions. Long before words such as sustainability, local sourcing and seasonal menus became part of everyday hospitality language, that was simply how Dad believed restaurants should operate. Those principles weren’t trends, they were common sense. I’m proud that so many restaurants across Scotland now celebrate local produce in that way,” he added.
There are now two Howies restaurants across the city, and the sister restaurant Scotts. That wasn’t the original plan, as Mr Scott explained: “The ambition wasn’t to build a restaurant group, it was simply to build one great restaurant.
“As Howies developed its reputation, opportunities naturally followed and the business gradually expanded into multiple venues across Edinburgh. Growth was never an objective in itself. It happened because people supported what we were doing and because each opportunity felt like the right fit.
“Like many businesses that have been around for more than three decades, the journey hasn’t always been straightforward. The business was eventually sold and later went into administration. My father made the decision to step back in and rescue it.
“I think that says a lot about what Howies means to our family. It wasn’t simply about a business—it was about protecting something that had become part of Edinburgh, along with the people, suppliers and guests who had supported it over many years.
“Today, I’m incredibly fortunate to be part of the next chapter, building on those foundations while making sure the business continues to evolve for future generations.”
36 years is a long time, and the principles of Howies - celebrating local, seasonal produce - have become commonplace but how has Edinburgh changed and grown in that time? “Edinburgh has become one of the UK’s great food cities,” said Mr Scott.
“The quality of restaurants is exceptional, Scottish produce is recognised internationally and diners have become far more adventurous. That has been fantastic for the city and for Scottish hospitality.
“The challenges have also grown significantly. Costs have increased dramatically, recruitment is tougher, regulation is more complex and customer expectations continue to rise.
“Technology has transformed the industry too. Online bookings, social media and review platforms have changed how restaurants operate and how guests choose where to eat.
Despite all of that, I don’t think the fundamentals have changed at all. People remember how they were made to feel. Hospitality has always been, and always will be, a people business.”
That time span also allows for reflection and if the family would do anything differently. Mr Scott said like most business owners the answer would be yes. Mistakes are inevitable, and most of your biggest lessons come from them. But he added: If anything, we’d probably have invested earlier in leadership development and technology because good systems don’t replace hospitality, they allow people to deliver it more consistently.
“The biggest lesson, though, is that culture matters above everything else. Menus change, buildings change and technology changes, but if you build a culture where people genuinely care about guests and care about each other, you’ve built something that can stand the test of time.
“Ultimately we’re custodians of a business that has been part of Edinburgh for more than three decades. Many of our guests have been dining with us for years, many of our suppliers have worked with us for decades and many members of our team have built long careers with us.”
With 36 years behind them, the plans for the future are clear: “We’re not chasing growth for the sake of growth. Our focus is on making every part of the business better,” said Mr Scott.
“That means continuing to invest in our people, refining the guest experience, strengthening our relationships with local suppliers and ensuring every visit to Howies is as good as it can be.
“We’re also enjoying taking the Howies experience on the road through events by Howies. This year we’ve catered weddings, corporate events and a number of high-profile occasions in Edinburgh and beyond. It has been a natural progression for us, allowing us to bring the same food, service and hospitality people know from our restaurants to wherever they’re celebrating.
“We see real potential to continue growing that side of the business while staying true to the values that have defined Howies for more than three decades. If opportunities come along that genuinely fit our values, we’ll always look at them, but our ambition has never been to become the biggest. Our ambition is simply to be one of the best.
“People celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, graduations, engagements, weddings and family gatherings with us. Some of our guests first came to Howies as children and now bring their own families. That is an incredible privilege and something we never take for granted.”
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