I tried ‘nostalgic’ neighbourhood Scottish pub and restaurant - my verdict
This popular neighbourhood restaurant has a new summer menu, which is just the tonic for a relaxed weekend, finds Rosalind Erskine.
Near where I live in Glasgow there are small pockets of shops and restaurants along a long street and many of these have remained unchanged for years. Times, tastes and, more likely, rates have meant that more recently we’ve said goodbye to many of these places. Jellyhill closed after 20 years, with coffee shop and bar 1841 taking its place; a longstanding spa became a coffee shop and a pizza and chippy takeaway became a restaurant. Another new addition within the last year has been The Clarence, a neighbourhood bar and restaurant which has a trendy French bistro feel to it. It was formerly Shucks, a Michelin recommended seafood restaurant and bar, but before then it had stood as Nick’s Italian for a number of years before it was taken over by brothers Chris and Paul Charalambous through the Cultar Restaurant Group who own Cail Bruich and Brett.
As Shucks, the restaurant had been busy, but the bar never really took off, explained one of our friendly waiting staff on a Friday night in summer when we finally got round to visiting The Clarence. Now both the restaurant and bar are very busy, and have been steadily so since it opened in January 2025. I’ve heard many friends in hospitality sing the praises of this chic neighbourhood eatery that’s the right mix of refined but not too much. Seasonal dishes and good cocktails are on the menu but the bar also does a snacks menu, and a pint isn’t eye-wateringly expensive. They host a pub quiz on Mondays and sell-out roasts on Sunday. It’s the type of place you can dine with friends and family or just meet for a couple of drinks.
Which is what half of Glasgow’s west end seemed to have decided to do when we visited in early August. The draw was the new summer menu, and, for my other half, the chance to sample their negroni. We started with two snacks - gildas of smoked anchovy, gordal olive, Manchego and guindilla and the fish and chip hash brown bites. The salty, spicy gildas were an ideal start to the meal while the indulgent fish and hash brown bites were moreish if lacking a bit in salt.
For starters I chose the suitably summery sounding grilled peach with 'nduja, burrata, oregano, mint and almonds while my partner chose the hand-dived Orkney scallops served with charred corn, chorizo and corn purée. The grilled peaches dish was an excellent balance of sweetness, spice and creaminess with a lovely dash of texture from the salted almonds while the scallops were perfectly cooked with added sweetness from the corn and bite from the chorizo.
When looking at the mains I’d originally ruled out an on the bone fish dish, of which there were two, as I didn’t want the faff and have a thing about small bones in fish. But I ended up ordering the roasted sole 'Murat', which is served with violet artichokes, tomatoes, chicken jus and brown butter, and I’m really glad I did. The fish was easy to peel off the bones, leaving a meaty addition to the deeply flavourful sauce that was peppered with earthy, nutty artichokes.
My partner ordered the beef fillet with tomato, anchovy and brown shrimp butter which was a different but wonderful addition to a very well cooked steak.
Despite generous portions we ordered a few sides - Warm potato salad served with crispy capers, chives, pickled shallots, Katy Rodgers' crème fraîche and horseradish and charred baby gem lettuce with ranch dressing, crispy bacon and pickles. Both were very good but it was the potato salad, a move away from chips which I’d normally have ordered, that was the standout dish with the creaminess of the creme fraiche dialled down with punchy horseradish, the sharpness from the capers and shallots.
We were pretty full so for dessert we shared the extremely decadent Bare Bones chocolate gateaux, with passion fruit caramel, nougat and hazelnut praline. I love anything Bare Bones as their chocolate is superb and this was an ideal showcase of it. Served like a sundae, but surely the most chocolatey one in the postcode, topped with hazelnuts and filled with gooey chocolate and caramel. Delicious but not for the very full or faint hearted.
For drinks the house negroni was toasted as a not too sweet or bitter success. The wine menu was extensive and the staff were helpful in choosing what to order. The cocktail menu looked appealing too with spritz, old fashioned and martini sections as well as £9 serves.
We left feeling very full and happy to have finally made it down to try what’s very likely to become the local. The easy-going atmosphere, excellent food and good mix of pub vibes and bustling restaurant are a winning combination. Here’s hoping The Clarence sticks around as long as the original Nick’s, especially as I have my eye on the Sunday roast menu.
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