Links to the past in Dornoch
The new clubhouse at Royal Dornoch increases the appeal of the northern golfing hub, writes Julie Douglas
The small Highland town of Dornoch, famous for its historic cathedral, now has another landmark – ready to welcome devotees of a different kind.
The new clubhouse at Royal Dornoch stands as a 21st-century temple for those who make the pilgrimage to this revered outpost of Scottish golf.
It was from the grounds of Links House, the five-star hotel on the doorstep of the world-famous course, that I caught my first glimpse of the imposing new building, just ahead of its December opening.
As darkness fell and the sea haar began to rise, its illuminated sandstone walls took on a strangely hypnotic glow, as if beckoning worshippers of the wee white ball.
If the scale and design of the £14 million development has divided opinion, there seems to be general agreement that the 116-year-old clubhouse it will replace can no longer meet the needs of its members, far less the year-round throng of visiting golfers.
At Links House – proud to call itself the UK’s most northerly luxury destination – there’s little doubt that the new facilities can only add value for guests in search of a high-end golf experience.
As well as enhanced comfort and hospitality, its open-to-all open-plan spaces will serve as an informal exhibition space, showcasing the evolution of golf in Dornoch, so engrained in the history of the town and a major draw for tourists.
Our stay at Links House coincided with the launch of the hotel’s new Highland Icons golf breaks, an off-season promotion offering stay-and-play packages for courses along the NC500 during spring and autumn.
With the first tee of Royal Dornoch only 100 yards away, the hotel is also well placed for the nearby links of Brora, Tain and Golspie; all benefitting from the rugged beauty of the North Highland Coast and all within a 30-minute drive.
Optional upgrades to the golf packages include private whisky tastings at Dornoch’s Carnegie Whisky Cellars, archery sessions, scenic private flights over the NC500 and private transfers for Inverness Airport, just an hour away.
We’d packed for a cosy and indulgent weekend getaway, happy to book-end a single round of golf with leisurely coastal walks – leaving plenty of time to lean into the comfort of this stunning property.
The small, snug-like library with an open fire, wood panelled walls and enticing whisky bar seemed the ideal place to begin the process of decompressing after our four-hour drive from Edinburgh.
Built in 1843 as the manse house for Dornoch Free Church, the hotel now has 15 individually styled rooms and suites, each named after one of Scotland’s great Salmon rivers. You can see why it’s just been named among the UK’s Top 50 Boutique Hotels in a list compiled by industry leaders.
Our junior suite, Cassley, was decorated in soothing earth tones with subtle tartan touches; a large fishing map of its eponymous waterway taking pride of place among the Highland landscapes adorning the walls.
In the stylish seating area, we sank back into big armchairs to enjoy our welcome cocktails – a Dalmore Whisky inspired auld-fashioned – while looking out towards the golf course and the Dornoch Firth. There was also a large TV screen, which could be swivelled around and viewed from the sumptuous king-sized bed.
A bright and airy contemporary bathroom featured a double vanity unit, walk-in rainfall shower and voluminous bath tub, where aromatic seaweed and sage scented toiletries from the Arran Apothecary were used liberally during the course of our stay.
From the bathroom window we could see the soon-to-be-demolished old clubhouse, the land for which was gifted to Royal Dornoch by the previous owners of Links House in 1909.
When it was time to eat we headed across the hotel’s small putting green to its fine-dining restaurant Mara, appropriately named after the Gaelic word for sea. Friendly staff and a roaring log fire welcome guests into a space that feels sophisticated, without being stuffy.
The table d’hote menu offers three courses for £95, promising gifts from Scotland's waters, fields, forests and skies, presented with minimal interruption. Wine pairing is available for an additional £55.
We dined here both nights allowing us to make the most of the mesmerising menus, which also include afternoon teas, Sunday lunches and one of the best breakfast selections ever.
Standout starters were the Sutherland venison haunch crumpet and a deliciously deconstructed cullen skink, that looked nothing like the hearty soup we’d expected.
Grilled North Sea Halibut, with vanilla, pears and lobster bouillabaisse was also a hit, as was the roast Ross-Shire pork loin, served with sweetcorn velouté and crispy pork fritter.
Our vote for favourite dessert was split between a fluffy apple souffle with chai ice cream and a chocolate mille-feuille embellished with black pepper and a hazelnut crumb. A selection of Highland fine cheeses, including the once-smelled-never forgotten Scottish Minger, can be sampled for a £10 supplement.
Sadly, our after dinner beach walk took place under thin but stubborn cloud cover, dashing any hopes of seeing a widely predicted display of Northern Lights.
The golf gods had answered our prayers, however, and the following morning we woke to a mild breeze and a low November sun casting light across the sea onto dew-drenched links. Even on a shortened winter layout with obligatory fairway mats, Royal Dornoch was a joy to play – its greens in perfect condition.
This had been my third stay at Links House in recent years and I felt I was leaving it on the threshold of a new era, both for the hotel and the golf club. When I return the new clubhouse will be bustling, the old one will be gone and the view from our bathroom window will look straight down the first fairway.
Two and three night stay-and-play packages at Links House start from £600 per person, based on double occupancy, and include accommodation, breakfast, golf, and welcome pack. For more details visit this link.
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