Pleasure, from ship to shore
The great value P&O Azura delivers entertainment, good food and a string of must-visit sunshine destinations, writes Martin Gray
Let’s get loud! That’s the song I’ve heard more often than any other when it’s time for a cruise ship ‘sailaway’. Not today. We’re in Valletta, capital of Malta, on the P&O Azura, and rather than Jennifer Lopez we’re leaving to traditional folk music. A trio of ladies in colourful outfits sway around the pool deck, peeking coyly from under high black headdresses, stiffened by hoops. These ‘ghonnellas’ gave protection from the island’s wind, while offering modesty and being fashionable. Sadly, they weren’t on sale in the ship gift shop.
It’s early evening and lit up around us are the Baroque-style buildings of Valletta’s Grand Harbour, once the strategic base for the Order of St John, today a buzzing waterfront leisure spot, with former warehouses converted into fashionable eateries and swanky shops. The looming city walls constructed by the famous knights add a touch of drama – Valletta was built as a fortress, with structures such as the star-shaped Fort St Elmo worth a visit.
After soaking up the atmosphere, we head for a bite in the buffet, only to nearly crash into bigger-than-life Wallace and Gromit characters. Aardman Animations have hooked up with P&O for the family entertainment programme and Shaun the Sheep is also prone to popping up on the 14 passenger levels of this 19-storey ship.
It’s October and Steve and I are on our first P&O trip, an eight-night Canaries and Mediterranean fly-cruise beginning here in Malta and going on to Cartagena in Spain, Tangier in Morocco, Arrecife de Lanzarote in Spain and finishing in Tenerife. That means four sea days and I am so up for it – I love relaxing in lovely warm weather on an easy-to-negotiate ship with loads to do.
Built in 2010 and refurbed this year, the Azura isn’t a megaship, a floating theme park, but the classic cruise liner, designed to appeal to the British market, with bags of family friendly features.
There’s a kids’ club and night nursery, along with such adults-only spaces as the open-air VIP Retreat and the Oasis Spa, an indoor thermal sanctuary offering pick-you-up treatments aplenty in super-serene surroundings. If more active relaxation is your thingthere’s a well-equipped gym and four swimming pools – the main one faces the ship’s SeaScreen outdoor cinema – with a gelato, gin or ginger beer – all three if you really need refreshment.
The spacious buffet has an ever-changing selection of dishes to suit all tastes and moods, while the main dining rooms offers posher fare, especially on the two formal nights with mouthwatering menus by Marco Pierre White. Other highlights of the 15 or so eating options are the fine dining Epicurean, Americas-themed Beach House, Mediterranean-inspired Glass House and stylish Indian Sindhu. There’s a poolside grill, ice cream kiosk, bars etc… or you could try room service in your cabin – options range from inside to sea-view, balcony, mini-suite and suite, with solo options that won’t break the bank. We’re in a balcony cabin, a floating room with a view, plus a very comfy bed, well-equipped bathroom, plenty of storage, TV – everything you need to relax in private.
One reason to leave the home comforts is the entertainment, including a human dynamo of a singer named Yzzy Pearce Higham. Her Paloma Faith tribute is fabulous, but honestly, her own personality and voice are a delight. Then there’s Britain’s Got Talent star Benjamin Moss, an adaptable vocalist and better comedian. Vocal Extreme, a trio of West End boys impress with high energy harmonies. And the in-house cast of singers and dancers bring us disco-tastic Blame It on the Boogie and Centre Stage, a rip-roaring round-up of highlights from such musicals as 9 to 5, Tina, Matilda and Frozen.
Daytime offerings include painting and craft sessions, exercise and dance classes and lectures from Sue and Trisha, past winners of BBC1’s Race Across the World.
On land, we’re equally entertained. Cartagena was founded in 227 BC by the Carthaginians but soon conquered by the Romans and it became a major trade and naval base of the Empire. Two-thousand years on the imprint of those days remains, with Roman ruins alongside imposing 18th-century defensive walls and 20th century Art Nouveau buildings. We head for Teatro Romano, a well-preserved theatre from the 1st century BC that was rediscovered in 1988 during building work – a cathedral had been erected over the ruins in the 13th century; today church and theatre are neighbours in a cleverly designed museum.
Other attractions of Cartagena include Castillo de la Concepción, a medieval castle atop a hill, offering the best panoramic views of the city, harbour and naval base, and a busy shopping district.
When we get to Tangier, we’re surprised to find the city in the throes of a drought, it hadn’t rained since spring. Happily, the smart city authorities have a plan involving desalinated sea water… the place still looks exceedingly green as we tour in a lovely air-conditioned bus. Stop-offs include the souks – markets selling spices, crafts… everything a tourist could wish for, and Cap Spartel Lighthouse, situated where the waters of the Atlantic Ocean meet the Mediterranean Sea.
The location led to Tangier becoming a unique blend of Moroccan, Spanish, French and English influences. From the 1920s through to the 1950s Tangier was an International Zone, jointly governed by France, Spain, Britain and other foreign powers, making it a hotbed of spying. Writers such as William S Burroughs, Paul Bowles and Patricia Highsmith took inspiration from whispered tales of tradecraft. Today? Who knows, but it seems a happy place, with people of the Islamic, Christian and Jewish faiths living alongside one another.
One symbol of the religious harmony is St Andrew’s Church, a 1905 Anglican church blending Christian and Moorish architectural styles – the bell tower is in the shape of a minaret, and the Lord’s Prayer carved into the walls in Arabic calligraphy.
Next stop, Arrecife. The vibrant capital of Lanzarote, it blends history, culture and seaside charm. Unlike the island's resort towns, Arrecife provides a glimpse into authentic island life, mixing restored colonial architecture with a modern, bustling port atmosphere.
Castillo de Adan Gabriel is worth wandering to, it’s a 16th-century fortress originally used to defend the city from pirates. Today it houses a museum of Arrecife life.
Then there’s the picture-perfect Charcoal de San Ginés, a beautiful saltwater lagoon in the heart of the old town that’s often referred to as the Venice of the Atlantic. It’s surrounded by whitewashed fisherman‘s cottages, palm trees and a gorgeous promenade lined with bars and restaurants, perfect for a relaxing stroll wandering back to the ship.
All too soon it’s time to return to Scotland, but the expected airport stress is taken away when we learn that because we booked our flights with P&O as part of the package, the luggage journey is seamless – just leave cases outside the cabin on the last night, and the next time you see them is back in the UK after touchdown. That’s no picking bags up outside the ship, lugging them onto the coach, dragging them to check-in – nope, it’s all done for you. The perfect end to a perfect break.
Martin Gray booked with Connoisseur Travel, Edinburgh, www.connoisseur-travel.co.uk; a named balcony cabin, flights and transfers, including £95 onboard credit for each passenger, £1,520 per person