I spent the weekend at this romantic Midlothian mansion, and I was completely bewitched
For weddings and other occasions, this place is paradise
In 1899, a fire gutted the inside of the Palladian mansion that is now known as Old Penicuik House.
Apparently, a maid informed her mistress, who was letting the property. The warning was ignored and the group continued with lunch anyway.
It was a slow burn, up in the rafters, though the steam-powered fire engine that trundled through from Edinburgh couldn’t put it out.
At least everyone survived, and most of the treasures in the house, which had been built by the third baronet, Sir James Clerk (1709-1782), were rescued.
These days, the shell of the A-listed building has been restored by The Penicuik House Preservation Trust. It is open to the public, as is the vast 12 hectare estate, including Clerk family monuments like the Roman Bridge, not to mention High Pond and Low Pond, where the local curling club convenes on the very coldest days.
There’s also Penicuik House - a recently refurbished former stable block that became the post-fire home for the Clerk family, who have owned and managed the estate since 1654.
This has just been launched as an exclusive-use 16 bedroom - eleven suites and five en-suites - venue, which can be let out for weddings, corporate get-togethers and big birthdays.
It can be hired individually or alongside any of the gorgeous self-catering cottages in the grounds, from the four-bedroom Stable Park to the truly luxurious one-bedroom Eskfield, which has its own walled garden with a burn running through the middle, plus a sauna, hot tub and cold plunge pool. These cottages have been individually designed by Edinburgh-based interior designer Fantoush.
The estate also has plans for woodland treehouses in the future. Oh, and an orangery, as well as a floating sauna on High Pond.
However, this weekend, I’m staying in a first-floor room that’s aptly named Arcadia. It has a large marble fireplace that’s flanked by white Staffordshire dogs, as well as maroon walls, a pink tiled wet room and, like all the decor in Penicuik House, has been designed by London interior designer Charles Orchard. He was commissioned by the current owner of the estate, the thirtysomething Ed Clerk, who, a few years ago, ditched his job as a fund manager to reinvigorate the family pile. And they’ve done a marvellous job.
This house, with its clock tower, huge Italianate courtyard with fountain and Flora the statue, as well as a doocot that was modelled on a Roman temple, is not too shabby as a romantic wedding venue. I’m tempted to ditch my husband, so I can get remarried here.
The buttercup yellow corridors and rooms are lined with architectural sketches by Robert Adam, who consulted in the building of Old Penicuik House, and family portraits, many of which would have once hung in the ruined building. All the Clerks of generations past, including Sir John Clerk (1676- 1755), aka the second baronet, who was known as something of a polymath and was a leading figure of the Scottish Enlightenment, keep their eye on proceedings.
There are various comfortable sitting and drawing rooms, with plump sofas that are as well upholstered as some of the pampered ponies that must have once lived here.
Although there are antiques, fat coffee table books on subjects including botany, and curiosities scattered throughout the house, they’ve ensured that it feels comfortable rather than museum-level precious.
To prove that it’s a place that’s designed for fun, there’s a cinema room, snug, and a bar, where they can organise activities, such as a gin-tasting session with Lind & Lime.
Interestingly, beside the hockey-stick shaped bar, in a cubby hole, is a Gothic-looking metal figurehead that used to decorate the front of one of the Wright brothers’ planes.
You will feel like you can fly, after a few gimlets.
Anyway, their treasures certainly have personality. In the dining room, which seats up to 48 guests, our meal times are monitored by two marble statues, which the Clerk family nicknamed Handsome and Beautiful.
The food served in here is courtesy of The Edinburgh Catering Company, who can whip up some incredible grub. Over the course of the weekend, we have breakfasts, afternoon teas, lunches and dinners, with loads of canapes chucked in. They are culinary geniuses, who work in the off-limits area that’s behind the house guests’ own vast kitchen, with its pristine marble worktop and fancy coffee machine.
I am not going to forget the ‘salmon special’ breakfast, with smoked salmon, poached egg, guacamole and crushed potatoes, which was washed down with chocolate-filled croissants and apple compote escargots, as well as fruity granola pots. I could have that every day. Oh, and the dinner of fat scallops followed by venison and baked Alaska.
However, there’s more to do than eat. As far as activities go, the team can arrange guided walks in the nearby Pentlands, as well as massages, guided star spotting, bike hire, wild swimming, heritage tours, and much more.
As the estate continues to evolve, I really need to return, so I better get looking for some fresh marriage material now.
Rates from £9750 per night minimum x2 nights. stay includes breakfast, www.penicuikestate.com
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